DO IT NOW! Even if it is still snowing in your area, start your indoor seeds now. Don't wait much longer or your yields may suffer for it.
I finally got my seeds going last weekend. I also started conditioning my soil with compost and rebuilding my raised beds. Got a lot more planned for this weekend, too. Take advantage of any warm weather you get and start working the ground.
Tomatoes wait for no man (or woman).
Thursday, March 21, 2013
Monday, February 4, 2013
Soil Solarization = Fail
The title says it all. I kept the plastic down for several weeks, but the temperatures just didn’t climb in the soil. So I pulled the plastic up and added new compost to clear out my compost bin. I’ll wait until the temperatures reach 80F during the day and stay above 50F over night. Should be fine by March 1st, I think.
I need to test of the soil to see if the Fungus Gnat larvae are mobile. I know temperatures in the soil are around 70F, so they may be awake. If they are, I’ll add some Gnatrol to the soil and see if I can kill them off before the season starts. It is labeled for organic use, so it should be fine.
I need to test of the soil to see if the Fungus Gnat larvae are mobile. I know temperatures in the soil are around 70F, so they may be awake. If they are, I’ll add some Gnatrol to the soil and see if I can kill them off before the season starts. It is labeled for organic use, so it should be fine.
Thursday, January 17, 2013
Soil Solarization
I have an ongoing pest issue in my garden and maybe you do, too. Maybe you’ve seen the little black fliers moving to and from along you soil line. These are most likely fungus gnats. Never heard of them? Well, if you have moist, black, nutrient-rich soil, you probably have fungus gnats. I have them in all of my raised beds and even in my beloved composter at times. Of course, they aren’t too much of a nuisance right now during the coldness of winter, but I can already imagine what is going on below the soil line where it is nice and warm and moist.
It
is not the flying adult fungus gnats that are the problem; rather it is the
soil-bound larval stage. They eat fungus in the soil (hence, the name) and
since that same soil fungus, called mycorrhiza, is attached to the tiny plant
root hairs, it damages the plant, too. In seedlings it is deadly. In more
mature plants, you get stunting, poor production and death in hot temperatures.
In root plants, you get really ugly produce.
The
best and easiest treatment is through the use of beneficial
bacteria. Prepare a soil drench with one of the commercial preparations
available and use as directed. This will usually work, but I am afraid I need
to go stronger.
Soil
solarization is a way to nuke every living thing in your soil without using harmful
chemicals. It is very simple to do as long as there are no plants growing in
the area you plan to solarize. All you have to do is wait for sunny days to
come, stretch some clear plastic over the area like a mini-greenhouse, then
allow the soil to be baked inside by the sun. High temperatures will kill all
the living things in the top 6-inches or so of the soil. The longer you leave
it, the better it is. An added benefit is you can kill a lot of weed seeds,
too. You can find much more detailed instructions here.
There
are some drawbacks, though. You are actually killing everything that is alive
including the beneficial fungus the gnats are eating. So once you are done, you
will need to add compost to your soil to build up the soil profile so it is
healthy. Also, in colder climates you may lose that area for the season because
your temperatures aren’t warm enough. However, even if you solarize for a short
time and kill most of the bad guys it will benefit you. Follow that up with the
beneficial bacteria soil drench and the garden should produce treasures untold.
How
do I keep the little buggers out? Well, the best way is to buy seeds instead of
seedlings. There are no gardens anywhere near mine and I suspect that my
original infection came from my store-bought tomato seedlings or at least the
soil surrounding them in the pot. If you do use store-bought seedlings, you can
look closely at the soil first for obvious signs of gnats. Also, you can wash
the roots carefully but thoroughly before you plant them. An additional step
would be to continue to drench your soil at least once a season and even add
some beneficial
fliers to your garden.
Good luck and good hunting!
Tuesday, October 23, 2012
Growing Mushrooms
In your garden,
mushrooms are generally a good thing. They tend to pop up when the soil is wet
and in shaded areas (underneath the foliage, for instance). Mushrooms are not a
reason to flip out. The vast majority are safe for consumption or composting. The
mushrooms and its underlying fungus are normal in soil and absolutely expected
in composted wood scraps.
If you are interested
in eating them or just curious, you can use a book
or website to help you
identify them. I would be very careful, though. I am well-versed in mushroom
identification and love their flavor, but I wouldn’t eat them unless I bought
them. Being decomposers, they do make great compost.
If your soil is
healthy, there is fungus growing under the surface. These beneficial microbes
help your plants to reach water and nutrients faster and more efficiently. They
are a good thing, so don’t run out and buy a mycocide to kill them. You may be
simply watering your garden a bit much for the current weather conditions.
Reduce your water and the mushrooms will likely go away.
Some people love to
grow their own mushrooms. There are kits available that are far safer. Fox News
recently did an article
on a small company that sells kits for your backyard or patio.
Sunday, October 21, 2012
Sorry......
Yep,
I’ve been absent. Really, though, I like to think of it as really, really
tardy. I will be updating the blog soon, I promise. Lots of lessons learned
this season. Can’t wait to share them.
Monday, July 23, 2012
Oh Those Tomatoes...
So far this year I have had some ups and downs with my tomatoes. Since I have had more time than normal this summer, I have spent more time studying the growth and development of my tomatoes.
The run of the mill Better Boy hybrid tomatoes are available at any nursery or home improvement store. They are fast growing, fast fruiting, and a hearty plant overall. I have had at least a dozen good tomatoes so far. My wife made a great tomato sauce from them. No issues at all with this plant except that it grows really fast and some of the fruit tops have split.
A new variety I am using is the Pink Brandywine. This is a Heritage variety and not a hybrid. It is the same plant grown in locations around the world for thousands of years. The fruit grows up to a pound and a half in weight. My plants have been loaded with tomatoes and take quite a bit longer than the hybrids. The real drawback has been no bug resistance. I have spent a lot of time bent over the plant pulling Cabbage Looper caterpillars off the leaves by hand (at least until the birds noticed them). However, the wife made a sauce from them that tastes INCREDIBLE. A far greater tomato flavor and I wholeheartedly endorse them.
The real heat is now upon us here in the valley. Temperatures above 100F mean that most tomatoes stop producing much. The next month or two will not see much in the way of tomatoes. However, the Fall will bring an increase in production. Can't wait.
The run of the mill Better Boy hybrid tomatoes are available at any nursery or home improvement store. They are fast growing, fast fruiting, and a hearty plant overall. I have had at least a dozen good tomatoes so far. My wife made a great tomato sauce from them. No issues at all with this plant except that it grows really fast and some of the fruit tops have split.
A new variety I am using is the Pink Brandywine. This is a Heritage variety and not a hybrid. It is the same plant grown in locations around the world for thousands of years. The fruit grows up to a pound and a half in weight. My plants have been loaded with tomatoes and take quite a bit longer than the hybrids. The real drawback has been no bug resistance. I have spent a lot of time bent over the plant pulling Cabbage Looper caterpillars off the leaves by hand (at least until the birds noticed them). However, the wife made a sauce from them that tastes INCREDIBLE. A far greater tomato flavor and I wholeheartedly endorse them.
The real heat is now upon us here in the valley. Temperatures above 100F mean that most tomatoes stop producing much. The next month or two will not see much in the way of tomatoes. However, the Fall will bring an increase in production. Can't wait.
Monday, June 18, 2012
You’re into Urine?
Yep,
it grosses people out, but you should be peeing in your garden. Typical urine
is very high in nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, the elements that makes
plants grow so thick and lush and fruitful. Why use fertilizers, even organic
ones, when you make a great fertilizer that you just flush away?
I know
what you are thinking. “But my dogs pee on the grass and it burns it!” OK, you
are right to an extent. First, the pee needs to go into the soil, not on the
plants. If pee gets on plants and sits there for too long, it forms ammonia
which will “burn” the plant. Second, what do you do to keep the dogs’ pee from
burning your lawn? You water the heck out of that spot. You need to dilute the
urine as much as 15 to 1. In the summer time, it’s not really a problem because
you are probably watering every day and that will dilute it pretty well. Think
about how much your dogs pee (but not too long or it’s weird). If urine burned
grass on contact, you wouldn’t have any grass left. Watering your lawn dilutes
it to a point where it doesn’t burn the grass and the lawn is healthier because
of it.
So
what is the plan? For guys, it’s easy. At night, when you have to “go,” step
outside in the backyard, go to your garden and pee on the soil. If you hit the
plants, give them a quick wash-off. Pee
in a different place each night and make sure your garden is getting plenty of
water. For women, you may need to collect the “yellow gold” indoors in a well-marked
mason jar and pour it in the garden in various places each night. In cooler
months when you water less, dilute the pee before you apply it. In Africa, they
have seen plant yields double using this method!
Some
people have worried about medications getting into your soil. Smart thinking,
but no need to worry. The small amounts that actually get filtered out by the
kidneys will be will diluted by watering.
Try
it, but don’t tell anyone right away. Let it be your little secret until AFTER
they eat.
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